Kumano Nachi Taisha - a magical dream in Japan!
15 days ago
·
15 days ago
·I keep promising I will make some blog posts about the month spent travelling in Japan last year! As I simply won't have time to blog the whole month I thought I would share my favourite day for now. Although it's hard because every day was pure magic!
Down at the bottom tip of Wakayama prefecture really was a very very special place. We took the ocean view train down from Wakayama City to Kii-Katsuura. Train travel in Japan is on another level and these ocean view trains are so well thought out, they slow down at scenic points and let you know when you need to look out of the window. (Although you can't take your eyes off the enchanting scenery rolling by anway!)
We stayed in a lovely hostel called Oyado Hana which was right next to the station and also had a private onsen you could book. A perk for us as you can't usually go in onsen with tattoos unless they're private! And all around Kii-Katsuura are hot spring foot baths you can bathe your feet in and relax whilst looking out onto the port.
There are also lots of fancy hot spring hotels, even one you are shipped out to on a Turtle Ferry! (which features in my book!) but we were in Japan for four weeks so were staying in the cheapest digs we could find. We were lucky in that most of our accommodation was between £25-£35 a night between us with the Yen being so low.
And to be honest those are often the loveliest down to earth places, simple traditional futons and mat floors with warm and friendly owners. Often they have great comfy communal spaces with tea, cooking facilities, books, maps and trinkets a plenty to feast your eyes on! In fact you end up with more room overall to relax in than you would in a compact hotel room for twice the price.
The coastline is pure rugged volcanic myth and magic. Twisted rocks and peaks where it feels like the yōkai are just around the corner. Such captivating supernatural beauty watching the waves crash and sifting through the coral on the beaches.
Kii-Katsuura is a fishing town so there are a lot of happy kitties around! And now it's quite a destination for the hot springs so although it is a small town it has a lovely market, cafe's and cute shops to visit. There were even vegan options on the street food market! We came here as I wanted to visit Nachi Taisha and a section of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. I would love to walk so much more of this route and others. Most of the people we met along the way were doing a section of the Kumano Kodo. This wasn't a touristy area at all which was heavenly, I don't know if at different times of year it is busier but our whole time here was very peaceful.(June 2024)
So we stayed here for a couple of days so that we could make the walks up to Nachi Taisha, well, the bus and then the walk! But we did notice that a lot of people stayed on the bus, nearly everyone in fact. So when we got off we wondered if we'd made a mistake! But in fact it was just that everyone wanted to get the bus to the top. I really recommend getting off at the bottom for the Daimon-zaka cobblestone walk up as it's truly magnificent. As it was just us and we'd had a couple of snake incidents already we were a little nervous. And as we got to the top a snake slithered past but upon looking it up it was a rat snake, and harmless. I'm not a fan though, sorry snakes! But so worth it, these magical pathways to enlightenment are what I live for! I could publish a book I have so many photos of magical paths... I don't know if it would be everyone's cup of matcha tea.(The photos are higher quality than these compressed blog pics though I promise!)
It was a lot of stairs and hot hot hot work! But we felt so blessed with the weather as heavy rain had been forecast but it was beautiful! The little shop at the top of these stairs sells scrumptious real fruit lollies which I recommend if you ever happen to go!
We continued up mossy paths a plenty feeling like we were walking through a Ghibli film, such a storybook. Patience felt very much at home!
As we continued we came to Kumano Nachi Taisha which is home to the grand shrine and many smaller shrines around it looking over the valley. I didn't get great pics of the shrines themselves but it's a really peaceful area to explore, give your gratitude, make your wishes and pay your respects as well as soaking up such a special spiritual space.
Within the grounds is a sacred Camphor tree. And it is BEAUTIFUL! The tree Totoro lives in is a camphor and I can see why! You can take a wishing plaque or prayer stick and (Gomagi), add your wish, walk through the tree and hang it the other side awaiting the burning ritual.
You crouch down to go inside but it is spacious inside, climb up inside and then come out a little way up the tree on the other side. What a dream! Needless to say I went through more than once and spent time inside as we were lucky there were so few people around.
They say the tree has a heartbeat, so you have to take the time to have a listen! I look very serious here, it's a serious business finding the heart of a sacred tree! :D
After you pass the tree you are led out to the fairytale view of the Three-Storied Pagoda which Nachi Falls tumbling behind.
You can go inside and pay your respects to the deity on each floor, see the murals and step out onto the balconies. After this you can walk down through the forest following more mossy pathways down to Nachi Falls. The tallest single uninterrupted waterfall in Japan tumbles down at such a volume that you'd think it would feel raucous but it feels strangely serene standing at the bottom of it wondering about the deity who lives inside. Here you can buy a small bowl (a very cute pink decorated one if you splash out the extra 100 yen (50p)) and drink from the water of longevity.
After such excitement and so many wonders you can take a break in the little restaurant with a spectacular view of your journey whilst eating noodles and handmade onigiri followed by matcha tea and mochi. Or you could be less greedy than us and just have one of those things!
After feeding time I recommend you do all of this AGAIN! Because what if you aren't here again, you probably won't be. Put the camera away, go and enjoy it and hold it within you forever. It was such a special place, every single element. I do hope it remains so without being spoilt be tourists. Which I know is a ridiculous thing to say coming from me... "if you're in traffic, you are traffic" as they say! But I like to think that wherever we go we are peaceful and respectful. So we might be in the traffic but we promise not to honk our horns!
It's often mentioned as a possible day trip from Wakayama city or even Osaka sometimes. But I really recommend staying nearby because you need a full dawn until dusk day to really appreciate it and explore every nook. The train is only a slower local train so takes a good 2-3 hours at least. (and that's just from Wakayama)
Many of the illustrations in my book "The Cat and the Kokedama" were inspired by this trip, the turtle ferry is hidden in the spread below. Much of my work is inspired by these adventures, I feel very lucky to have had them ❤️
(ps - you can buy the book here! :D)
Comments